In Buje area it’s worth to get lost. If you are lucky enough you’ll take a narrow local road that zigzags through the hills of olive trees and vineyards and finally find yourself in front of Stari podrum. This tavern looks like a lonely house from a fairy tale. Discrete rumbling of the nearby stream accompanies you as you enter inside. Interior is cosy, rustic, with stone walls and an open fireplace with a barbecue in one corner. Here you’ll find homemade bread, a good house white wine (Malvasia), but also a good selection of renowned Istrian winemakers like Kozlović, Benvenuti, Clai, Coronica…

Charcuterie is a must try: Istrian prosciutto, sausages, ossocollo, pork tenderloin (ombolo), everything air-dried on Bura wind. A bottle of local extra virgin olive oil is at your disposal, so pour it over truffle cheese, freshly picked radicchio, rocket salad, in fact put it on everything that chef Mira brings to your table. Amazing omelets or homemade pasta, with wild asparagus or black truffles, everything here smells so good that the air is full of mouthwatering aromas. There are rumors they serve the best tenderloin steak in Istria! At the end we approached Mira to praise her dishes. She responded very modestly: “We just serve what we serve at our home.” Reservation is a must.

The owner Mira will make you feel in Stari Podrum as cosy as at your home

Truffle and cheese on toasted bread

Pršut, grilled mushrooms and sheep cheese cold platter

White truffle pasta